Who do I contact, for what?
b) General enquiries not covered above: Secretary
c) Shows: the club secretary or delegate
d) Cat of the Year points: Anne Sherwood
e) Updates to website only: Webmaster link on home page.
How do I join CAT Inc?
Application for membership forms are available in the ‘Downloads’ section. Fees applicable to membership, registering a prefix (cattery name) etc are all shown in the ‘CAT Inc Fees’ section. Completed form and a postal order or cheque are sent to the Registrar (see ‘CAT Inc Committee’ page) who submits the application to the next meeting of the Committee for approval. You will be advised of such approval and sent receipt, Rules and Regulations and Constitution.
It is strongly recommended that potential members read the CAT Inc Rules, Constitution and Breeders’ Code of Ethics. (“Downloads” section.)
Why buy a registered kitten from a CAT Inc breeder?
Buying a registered kitten from a registered breeder rather than from a backyard breeder or a pet shop is rather like buying a car from a legitimate, established dealer rather than from a classified ad or a car parked at the side of the road with a ‘For Sale’ sign.
A registered breeder is subject to CAT Inc rules and Code of Ethics and this is enforced. Ask for evidence of registration of the kitten you are thinking of buying: the breeder will be able to show you a form which shows the names of parents, date of birth and the names of all the kittens in that litter, each with its own number. In the case of experimental breeds, they will be able to show you paperwork with a “TS/ _ _ _ _ ” litter registration number. Ask to see the parents of the kitten.
A backyard breeder or pet shop is quite often offering a ‘product’ which is not what it’s claimed to be and you have no real redress if things go bad. They often charge as much, if not more than, the ‘real deal’. It’s not unusual to see wondrous mixtures advertised at large prices – ‘designer breeds’ - which are not recognised at all. Such ‘breeds’ are moggies! Beware ‘bargain’ kittens – ultimately you get what you pay for.
RESPONSIBLE BREEDERS CAN AT BEST EXPECT TO BREAK EVEN, BUT FOR MOST, BREEDING GOOD CATS, PROPERLY, IS A FINANCIAL LOSS!
What to expect?
A responsible breeder will have ensured the kitten has been (preferably) fully vaccinated and vet-checked on each occasion it had its shot. He/she will not let a kitten go to a new home until at least 10 weeks (one vaccination minimum) or ideally, a little later. Extra time with mum is important to a kitten’s social development and personality, not to mention its ongoing well-being. That cute 6 – 8 week baby kitten taken from mum often grows up with personality and sanitary problems. Go for a fully rounded, slightly older personality for the long haul!
All CAT breeders must sell a pet kitten with - as an absolute minimum - a desexing contract (see Downloads) which they are required to follow through; or already desexed (preferable).
Prices:
Phone or email around various breeders to get an idea of the normal price range for a particular breed. There is quite a variation, not necessarily indicative of quality. Make sure you know exactly what is included in that cost (i.e: Desexing? How many vaccinations? Transfer of registration and pedigree?)
What if I experience problems with a CAT Inc breeder?
First, we sincerely hope you don’t, but occasionally problems occur. CAT Inc cannot deal with any complaints not in writing nor with any issues not substantiated. (For example, by copies of correspondence and veterinary bills and letters.) We will not deal with any matters which are already (or are likely to be) part of the civil process and given the nature of some complaints the committee has experienced, it’s often a matter of ‘buyer beware’. Unfortunately, the purchaser has usually proceeded (in innocence) beyond a point at which we can help. Please read the Code of Ethics and our Veterinary (quarantine) Rules prior to entering into an agreement.
What about early-de-sexing?
Forget the myths. Kittens from 1kg can be successfully desexed (though that is the rule of thumb for rescue centres; breeders usually have the operation done when the kitten is a little older and has more substance). Many members of CAT have personal experience of utilising early or juvenile desexing – in a couple of cases, since 1970! The younger the kitten, the quicker the recovery from surgery. Breeder experience has proven that it does not interfere with development in any way. Some females are sexually viable at 16 weeks and some males, at 6 mths or so.
If desexed prior to moving to its ‘forever’ home, the kitten has no distractions – you will be its focus.
“Just one litter, so the kids can see the miracle of childbirth”.
What a cat doesn’t know, it doesn’t grieve over. A desexed pet devotes itself to its human family with no desire to maraud the neighbourhood seeking a mate, screaming its lungs out or (if male) spraying vile-smelling urine to mark the territory. (Just great on curtains and carpet.) And that’s aside from becoming road kill!
Instead, consider the miracle of 2am, out-of-hours caesarian, which can cost up to $1000, depending on the vet and severity of the problem. Early desexing is so much cheaper! Odds are, your kids wouldn’t be awake to watch a natural ‘miracle’, anyway! (Cats tend to give birth when all is quiet and serene: i.e: after the kids are in bed.) And then, how will you place the litter of 5 or so? Will you neuter them all? Will you make 100% certain they don’t contribute to the unwanted/feral cat situation? One female can (if left to her own devices) produce at least 10 (unwanted) kittens a year, which in their turn can continue and dramatically multiply that statistic.